Introduction
The saltpans in the triangle of Puerto Real - San Fernando - Chiclana in the province of Cadiz are a true paradise for bird lovers. These former salt mining areas not only offer a rich history, but also a diverse ecosystem where countless bird species have found their home. In this blog post we take you on our three-part visit to this fascinating area, during which I was able to take some interesting photos at different times of the day and therefore under different light conditions.
First exploration
The first visit to the saltpans was more of an exploratory excursion. It soon became clear that the area is a treasure trove of interesting bird species. The pine forest Pinar de los Franceses, located next to the saltpans, is perhaps worth a separate visit because of the presence of the Iberian Green Woodpecker and possibly some owls.
During this exploration I came across several sluices between the canals that you have to cross, which made the walk somewhat difficult, especially with heavy camera equipment. Caution is advised when crossing, even in dry weather conditions.
You can hardly get lost in this labyrinth, but it is still recommended to plan your walk by first looking at the map and definitely take a phone with GPS. Depending on how fit you are, you can walk between two and eight kilometers.
A Kestrel and a Booted Eagle also provided an interesting scene, hunting for something on the ground close together. The Kestrel caught its breath in a tree while the Booted Eagle rested a bit on the ground.
I managed to sneak closer to the birds over a strip of sharp rocks and hard sand remaining unseen. Bloody elbows and knees were the price I paid for some nice photos, taken at eye level with the busy birds.
A morning full of surprises
On my second visit I arrived before sunrise. My goal was to photograph the majestic Greater Flamingos in the first light of the morning. Although my arrival was betrayed by a number of noisy Black-winged Stilts and the flamingos were at a considerable distance, I was rewarded with some breathtaking photos.
Just after the sun came up, the sky turned orange and something on the water surface created beautiful sparkles in the photos. Was it water striders doing it? No idea.
While mosquitoes were biting me continuously, even through my clothes, I also captured Little Terns snatching fish from the water.
However, I also discovered the treacherous nature of the area when I sank knee-deep in the mud while trying to take a shortcut. Under a thin crust of dried sand, sometimes a metre of mud is hidden. Fortunately, the camera gear was spared, but it took me a few washes to get the clothes clean again.
Afternoon light and new challenges
On a third visit, late one afternoon, after a walk through the labyrinth of the saltpans, I found myself back at the spot where I had photographed the rising sun, this time hoping to capture the Greater Flamingos during the golden hour at dusk. Although the flamingos were again at a great distance, the soft light at this time offered wonderful photographic opportunities.
The photos of the sparkles during an earlier visit had certainly been worthwhile, but I will have to continue the search for the perfect photo of a group of flamingos at another time: the birds were again too far away.
In total, spread over the three visits, I saw more than forty different bird species. The most striking observations were those of a family of Hoopoes, five members strong, and a large flock of Black-tailed Godwits. There were also a remarkable number of juvenile birds present, including Red-legged Partridge and Stonechat.
During my afternoon walk I was also startled by a number of stray dogs. They left me alone, but still did not have entirely peaceful intentions.
The dogs weren't the only strange sight in the saltpans this afternoon. I'm not sure what a woman was doing lying in the mud.
Fortunately, after that I could concentrate on the real protagonists: the birds.
The area is challenging, but certainly offers countless opportunities for the patient birdwatcher and photographer. Please contact us if you would like to join us on a future visit!
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