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A muddy adventure in the lagoons of Espera

  • Mar 15
  • 3 min read

After what felt like an eternity of rain, today was finally a dry day. Perfect for seeing how the lagoons of Espera were doing and what birds had decided to make an appearance. Of course, getting there wasn’t that simple. Some access roads were still blocked thanks to all the recent downpours, so I had to take a scenic (read: unnecessarily long) route to reach them.




Sign reading "Complejo Endorreico de Espera" in a lush natural reserve with green trees and bushes, conveying a peaceful, scenic atmosphere.
Sign at the first lagoon


The three lagoons are fed by rain and some underground currents. Their origin is mainly due to the presence of a flat terrain with small undulations and a slight slope, where impermeable materials favour the accumulation of water. Sounds scientific and all, but what it really means is that when it rains a lot—like it did this winter—the lagoons fill up beautifully. When it doesn’t, they can dry up completely.



White building with a red roof, fenced, surrounded by greenery on a sunny day.
Small construction near the first lagoon, Laguna Hondilla

The first stop was Laguna Hondilla, the smallest of the three. Last year around this time, it was nothing but a sad, cracked expanse of dry earth. Now, there was water! The problem? Seeing it was a different matter. The vegetation had gone wild, making it nearly impossible to get a good view. Naturally, I thought, “Maybe if I get a little closer...” Bad idea. The ground was so muddy that every step felt like a gamble. I quickly realized that today’s birding would be an exercise in not losing my boots—or my dignity.




Sign surrounded by trees and fields under a clear sky. Text reads "Laguna Hondilla."
You can barely see the water through the vegetation


Olive tree branches in foreground with a vibrant yellow flower field and bare trees under a blue sky with clouds.
A very colourful field, but with treacherous mud beneath

It was here where I managed to get ridiculously close to a pair of Red-legged Partridges. They were napping in the grass and were not disturbed by my close presence at all.



Partridge with red beak and striped neck rests on green grass in sunlight.
Red-legged Partridge


Partridge close-up with vivid red markings and speckled feathers. Mouth open, in a natural habitat with blurred greenery background.
Its face was priceless when it finally noticed me



A partridge with striped feathers stands on a sunlit, grassy ground.
In the end it decided to walk away to a quieter spot



On to Laguna de Zorrilla, where the water level was much higher than last year. This lagoon has a maximum depth of two meters, but I wasn’t here to measure that—I was here for the birds. There’s a hide, but I find it pretty useless unless you have a telescope, thanks to some strategically annoying trees blocking most of the view. So, like any determined birder, I made my way through the vegetation to get a better look.




Calm marsh landscape with dry reeds and green foliage under a clear blue sky.
One of the places where you can get close to the water of Laguna de Zorrilla


That’s when I found myself in Marsh Harrier territory. These birds are absolutely stunning but also total troublemakers. I counted at least six of them around this lagoon alone. They glide around like they own the place, sending the smaller birds into panic mode. If the bird world had villains, Marsh Harriers would be up there with the best. But they weren’t the only raptors around—I was lucky enough to spot a Hen Harrier too, which was a nice surprise!



A grey and white bird of prey with black wingtips soars in a clear blue sky.
Hen Harrier


Birdwatching hide interior with benches and viewing slits overlooking greenery.
A real pity that this hide is useless because of the dense vegetation


A duck flies through lush green foliage, vibrant against a blurred background.
You have to be inventive if you want to photograph the birds here


A bird with brown and white feathers soars through a blurred green backdrop.
One of the many Marsh Harriers patrolling the lagoon



A bird of prey with outstretched wings soars against a clear blue sky. Feathers have brown and golden hues.




Marsh Harrier soaring in clear blue sky, wings spread wide, showing brown and tan feather patterns.




Brown rabbit sniffs the ground amidst green plants on a sunny day.
I spotted dozens of rabbits


A soaring harrier with outstretched wings against a clear blue sky.
A Marsh Harrier holds a caught rabbit in its claws



Two birds of prey in flight against a clear blue sky. One carries prey in its talons.



A large bird glides in a clear, blue sky with wings spread wide, accompanied by a smaller bird.
A Marsh Harrier flies towards a House Martin

A bird of prey soars with wings spread wide over a blurred green forest.



A Kestrel soars in a clear blue sky. Wings are spread wide, showcasing detailed feathers.
Female Kestrel near the hide



Four ducks flying over a lake surrounded by lush greenery.
Four Red-crested Pochards flying over the lagoon


A small black and reddish-brown bird swims in a calm lake with reeds and reflections.
Little Grebe



The last stop was Laguna Dulce de la Zorrilla. Last year, I couldn’t reach it because the vegetation was too high along the path. This year, I had a different problem: a serious mud situation. Walking the path to the lagoon felt like participating in an extreme sport. I lost count of how many times I nearly fell, but somehow, I made it through. When I finally got a view of the water, I spotted yet more Marsh Harriers (of course) and a beautiful pair of Gadwalls. Not bad!




Landscape with greenery, a pond, and distant trees under a clear blue sky.
Laguna Dulce de la Zorrilla

Dense thicket landscape with dry, leafless bushes in the foreground.
Also here it was impossible to get closer to the water


A brown and white hawk soars against a clear blue sky.
Another Marsh Harrier



Pigeon in flight against a blue sky with white clouds.
A beautiful Wood Pigeon


A small brown and yellow bird perches on a wooden post against a blurred green background.
A female Stonechat



In the end, the bird variety wasn’t as high as I had hoped, but these lagoons are still a fantastic refuge for wildlife. Plus, with all the plants and insects thriving, it’s clear that nature is making the most of this record-breaking wet season. As for me, I made it out without falling in the mud. Barely.




Tracks imprinted in muddy ground, surrounded by small green plants and patches of dirt.
The only advantage of the mud is that it allows you to spot many tracks of animals



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