Sep 194 min read

Birdwatching in Grazalema during the rutting season

The month of September in the south of Spain brings with it a special period, especially for bird lovers. Grazalema, a mountainous area in the province of Cadiz, is known for its rich nature and extensive hiking trails. What makes this time of year so special is the bird migration to Africa. Countless birds prepare for their long journey, and this offers unique opportunities for birdwatchers to observe a wide range of species.

Landscape with mountains in the distant background — Spectacular view at the start of the route

Although it can still be warm in the province of Cadiz in September, the hottest days are now over. This makes it pleasant to take longer walks in Grazalema even around noon. In addition, the mountainous terrain ensures that the temperature here is always somewhat milder than in the lower parts of Cadiz. The weather forecast promised only a small chance of rain, but in Grazalema that is never a certainty. After all, the area is known as the place with the most rainfall in Spain. Fortunately, I was spared from rain during my walk and was able to fully enjoy the landscape and the many birds.

Mountain peaks disappearing into the clouds — Every now and then the sky showed a threatening face

The route along Arroyo de Campobuche

My hike took me along the Arroyo de Campobuche, a stream that was almost completely dry, normal for this time of year. However, the presence of birds was overwhelming from the moment I arrived. Without really having to move, I could hear and see almost twenty different species. Some birds were hidden in the trees, while others flew low over the fields or were clearly visible on the bushes. It seemed as if the birds came from everywhere, each with their own sounds and movements. Nature came alive here in a way that you rarely see.

Dry river — In times of sufficient water this place is even more beautiful

Common Whitethroat sitting on a branch — Common Whitethroat

Iberian Grey Shrike sitting on a bush — Iberian Grey Shrike

Bird sitting on barbed wire — One of the many Common Redstarts

After about half an hour of walking, I heard the sound of cowbells. A dozen cows soon joined me on my journey through the dry riverbed. Their destination was clear: a part of the stream where there was still some water. They were not the only animals that came to quench their thirst: I also spotted a Grey Wagtail, a Kingfisher and numerous Blue Tits and Chaffinches.

Blue Tit standing on a rock — Thirsty Blue Tit

Five toads near water — There were also dozens of noisy toads near the water

Toad sitting in the mud — This toad is difficult to spot due to its excellent camouflage

A challenge for hikers

Although some websites describe this route as easy, the reality turned out to be different. There are almost no signs indicating the direction, so good preparation is essential. Intuition can help you follow the river, but a GPS or a guide is definitely recommended, especially if you plan to make the route circular. Also, you have to open a gate every now and then to continue, which can only lead to more confusion.

Puddle of water in a landscape — Another place where birds come to drink

Metal fence under a tree in the forest — One of the fences

The roaring of the deer

Late summer is also the time to hear the deer roar, the loud call of the males during the rutting season. As I climbed higher, I heard this call coming closer and closer. After a steep climb of about half an hour, I reached the highest point of the route.

Wide walking path in a forest — The path goes steeply uphill here

Mountain peaks — Impressive mountains in the distance

The view was breathtaking and reminded me that I was in the mountains. The call of the deer was really close now. Very slowly and carefully I tried to get closer to the place where the loud sound came from. Between the branches I could actually see antlers!

Antlers of a deer between the branches of the trees

Dozens of cautious steps later, something I had never expected happened: I stood face to face with a beautiful male deer. The animal's impressive antlers were a potential danger, especially during the rutting season. Yet the animal stood calmly and motionless, allowing me to take some beautiful photos. This moment was at least as memorable as spotting a rare bird species!

Male deer in the forest — A truly beautiful animal!

I was lucky enough to also encounter a female, equally beautiful and calm.

Birdwatching in the forest

The forest in this area is home to many species of birds, including Nuthatches, Treecreepers, Blue Tits, Long-tailed Tits and woodpeckers. These birds are often easier to hear than to see, but with some patience I managed to get a few good shots. Even the Jays, which are often only heard, eventually showed themselves fairly easily before flying away.

Nuthatch on a branch of a tree — Nuthatch

Treecreeper hanging from the trunk of a tree — You usually discover Treecreepers because you hear them first

An unexpected setback was the numerous horseflies that live in the woods here. Because I didn't have any insect spray with me, I was constantly bothered. Fortunately, this problem is less present in the winter months.

Robin among the bushes — One of the few times I saw a Robin clearly

Firecrest between the branches of a tree — Firecrest

It was also striking how many birds enjoyed the many fruits on the bushes along the river.

Bird picking berries from a bush — Male Blackcap picking berries from a bush

Bird eating berries on a bush — A Spotted Flycatcher follows his example

Bird eating blackberries — This female Common Redstart likes blackberries

A rich environment for nature and bird lovers

The area around Grazalema is a true paradise for nature lovers. The whole area here is so rich in birds and fauna and flora in general, that you can easily spend a whole week here to explore everything thoroughly. Even if you only have half a day, a visit is definitely worth it. Grazalema offers you an experience that you will not soon forget, especially when the bird migration is in full swing. You can walk for miles here without meeting a single person, the only thing you hear is the singing of the many birds.

Great Tit between the branches of the trees — Great Tit in a beautiful setting

The bark of a cork oak — The different layers of bark of a cork oak

Bird among the leaves of a tree — Most birds hide among the foliage

Little bird between the branches of a bush — Sardinian Warblers are sometimes difficult to photograph. Here is a male.

Blue Tit on a branch — Blue Tits seem to be less bothered by human presence

Blue Tit hanging from a branch — Another Blue Tit, busy eating aphids.

Two deer in the forest — I was lucky enough to encounter several more deer

Woodpecker between the branches of the trees — Great Spotted Woodpecker

Female Stonechat between the bushes — Female Stonechat

Crested Tit among the berries of a bush — A Crested Tit also likes a berry

Large flock of Griffon Vultures circling high in the sky — Higher in the sky, dozens of Griffon Vultures gathered

Bird of prey flies through the air with open beak — A rather bulky Short-toed Snake Eagle

In addition to the spectacle of bird migration, this period also has a noticeable impact on the local flora and fauna. The abundance of birds attracts predators, such as the Booted Eagle, which take advantage of the vulnerability of the migrating birds. In addition, various native plants bloom at this time of year, attracting insects, which in turn attract smaller species of birds to the area. This creates a vibrant ecosystem in which all animals play a role in the cycle of nature. Grazalema becomes a real melting pot of biodiversity in September, with every walk offering a new surprise. The feeling of being part of this natural spectacle makes a birdwatching tour in this region even more special and unforgettable.

Common Redstart on a bush — Common Redstart

Bird on a branch — Adult Spotted Flycatcher

Jay sits among the branches of a tree — Jay