Birding in the rugged landscapes of Grazalema always promises a mix of challenges and rewards. For this trip, I had carefully monitored the weather forecast to avoid rain, and things looked promising as I set out early in the morning. My first stop was Puerto de Las Palomas, a spectacular viewpoint where I hoped to catch sight of some high-altitude bird species. The morning was cool but manageable, with decent weather and clear visibility.
As I began my hike, low clouds started rolling in, adding a dramatic backdrop to the already stunning scenery. While scanning the rocky terrain, I was pleasantly surprised by the company of three curious mountain goats. They watched me with mild interest, their agile movements reminding me just how adapted they are to this challenging environment. Their presence was a welcome distraction from the chill that began to creep in as I ascended toward Cerro Coros, a nearby peak I had earmarked for spotting the elusive Alpine Accentor.
The only birds of prey mentioned on the information board that I saw were some Griffon Vultures, watching me from high above on a cliff.
Reaching Cerro Coros, I was greeted by biting winds and an eerie mist that engulfed the peak, transforming the landscape into something otherworldly. My hopes of finding an Alpine Accentor were dashed; despite the conditions being theoretically suitable, there was no sign of them anywhere. I lingered for a while, settling down on a rocky perch to soak in the atmosphere. The wind whipped around me, and the clouds seemed to flow like waves over the jagged terrain. It wasn’t the discovery I had hoped for, but the experience was hauntingly beautiful.
One redeeming aspect of this windswept peak is its vantage point for observing Griffon Vultures. From this height, it’s possible to see them soaring below, a perspective rarely afforded to birders. Today, I counted around thirty Griffon Vultures gliding southward, their broad wings effortlessly slicing through the gusts. Watching them in flight never gets old. I always take the time to study each bird closely; their subtle differences in feather patterns, wing wear and facial expressions reveal their individuality. It’s a reminder that even within a single species, there’s a world of variation to appreciate.
The climb wasn’t entirely without bird sightings. On the way up, I spotted a Dartford Warbler flitting between patches of scrub. Though small and understated compared to the larger raptors, its quick movements and soft song brought a touch of life to an otherwise quiet trek. Unfortunately, neither the Ring Ouzel nor the Alpine Accentor made an appearance.
Later in the day, I made my way to the Campobuche river, a peaceful area transformed by the recent rains. The landscape was noticeably altered, with fuller streams and dampened ground adding a new layer of texture to the surroundings. The birdlife here was vibrant, though many species stayed hidden among the dense vegetation. I strained my ears to identify their calls, and much to my relief, I heard the distinctive sound of Redwings, one of my target species for the trip. While I didn’t manage to catch a glimpse or snap a photo, their presence was a satisfying end to my search.
After six hours of hiking, scanning and listening, I left Grazalema feeling that the effort had been worthwhile. Despite the uncooperative weather and the absence of some anticipated species, the combination of dramatic landscapes, unexpected encounters, and a few memorable observations made for a deeply rewarding day.
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