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A challenging birdwatching journey to 1654 metres

Today’s adventure took me to El Torreón, the highest mountain in the province of Cadiz, standing at an impressive 1654 metres. Nestled in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, this peak is renowned for its challenging trail and captivating vistas but remains less frequented by birdwatchers due to its difficulty. The continuous ascent, combined with potentially harsh weather conditions, especially during winter, demands preparation and endurance. From the starting point, the climb covers a height difference of 700 metres over a distance of about three kilometres, with no risk of getting lost thanks to the relatively well-marked path.



Hilly landscape under a clear blue sky with wispy clouds. A road curves by lush greenery and trees. A signpost is visible on the left.
The adventure begins at the foot of the mountain


Metal gate with warning signs in Spanish amidst lush greenery and trees
You need permission to go beyond this gate



Setting off early, I was curious whether this trek would offer me a glimpse of the elusive Alpine Accentor, a species absent during a recent visit to Cerro Coros. The weather was surprisingly mild for the season, offering a promising start. The trail began under the cover of dense vegetation, where shady canopies provided a pleasant refuge. Although the birdlife here was sparse, I could hear the cheerful calls of Robins, Blue Tits, Great Tits, and the faint, high-pitched notes of Goldcrests. The vibrant atmosphere in this lower part of the trail gave way to a different mood as I ascended.



Mountain landscape with misty valleys and green forests, under a blue sky
It's hard not to stop every five minutes to enjoy the spectacular scenery


A sunlit, rocky hiking trail winds through lush green hills under a clear blue sky
The climb continues...




A peaceful forest path with moss-covered rocks and trees
The first kilometre also leads you through beautiful trees


Black and white goat stands among rocks and shrubs on a rocky hillside
A friendly goat halfway the trail






With every step upward, the landscape transformed. Trees gave way to rocky slopes, and the air became cooler. The views expanded dramatically, revealing the rugged beauty of the Sierra de Grazalema. Initially, the sky was crystal clear, but as I neared the summit, a curtain of clouds began to roll in, hinting at the unpredictable weather this area is known for. Despite the changing conditions, the path remained safe, though I could imagine the challenge of navigating it after heavy rainfall when mud might turn it slippery.




Foggy mountain slope with rocky terrain, green shrubs, and trees
Low hanging clouds change the atmosphere


Upon reaching the rocky zone, my patience and attentiveness were rewarded. Sitting calmly on a rock were two Ring Ouzels, their distinct plumage standing out against the rugged terrain. Before I could capture more than a snapshot, they took flight, joined by five more of their kind. Their graceful departure added an exhilarating moment to the climb, hinting at the treasures these high-altitude habitats hold.



Ring Ouzel sitting between the rocks
A Ring Ouzel perched gracefully on a rocky outcrop, blending with the rugged landscape






Ring Ouzel standing on a rock
Another Ring Ouzel, surveying its mountain surroundings

The final stretch to the peak proved to be the most demanding, requiring a steady pace and unwavering focus. Still, it never felt daunting or induced vertigo, unlike other trails in the region. About three hours after starting my ascent, I reached the summit. Just before this final push, the sight of several Common Redstarts and the vibrant presence of a Blue Rock Thrush provided delightful company.



Rocky mountain landscape with dry grass and cloudy sky
Ready for the final climb over a rocky part


A small bird perched on a gray rocky cliff against a pale sky
Male Common Redstart


A bird perches atop rugged gray rocks against a clear blue sky
Blue Rock Thrush


At the very top, the long-anticipated encounter with the Alpine Accentor came to fruition. These mountain-dwelling birds, known for their calm demeanor, showed no fear of my presence. One busily gathered food just a few metres away, while two others joined shortly after. They allowed me ample time to photograph their striking features, making the steep climb truly worthwhile.



Close-up of a speckled bird perched on a rocky surface with a neutral background
At the very top I was welcomed by this lovely little fellow






A small brown bird with orange and white markings perches on a rocky surface
Alpine Accentor


Bird in mid-flight over rocky terrain with grey and mossy details



A small bird with grey and orange plumage stands on a rock



A small bird with mottled brown and grey feathers perches on a rock against a plain background



Standing at the summit, I ventured to the other side of the peak, where sheer cliffs and a dramatic drop made it clear this was no place for anyone with vertigo. The views from this side, though partially obscured by clouds, were humbling. Only the peak of San Cristobal, a nearby mountain standing at 1556 metres, emerged through the mist.



Tall mountain between the clouds
The nearby San Cristobal


The journey back down offered its own rewards. The sun began to set, casting golden hues over the undulating landscape, while clouds lingered dreamily between the mountains. It was a magical sight, a perfect ending to the day’s adventure. For those planning to stay until sunset, timing is crucial. Darkness falls quickly here, and the descent, though less physically demanding, still requires caution.




A small bird with brown and grey plumage perches on a rock against a soft blue sky





Sunset over a mountain with clouds
Marvellous views on the way back down


The sightings of the Alpine Accentor, Blue Rock Thrush, and Ring Ouzels, along with the serene beauty of the mountains, left a lasting impression. El Torreón may demand effort, but it repays it with unforgettable moments.




Sunset over mountain range with rolling clouds and lush greenery






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